Monthly Archives: August 2010

5 Main Money Gobblers

The following is a post by staff writer Crystal at Budgeting in the Fun Stuff.  Her blog covers living expenses, saving for your future, and the fun stuff in between.

I thought this article at Yahoo was just perfect for Sweating the Big Stuff. According to it, these are the five things that will consume 50% of your total lifetime earnings:

1. House
2. Car
3. Kids
4. Higher Education
5. Retirement

I’m not terribly surprised at the list, but I thought it would be fun to come up with ways of saving as much as you can in these areas so you don’t have to sweat the small stuff so much.

1. House – I personally think that you should only buy a home you can EASILY afford. I thought of how Mr. BFS and I would need to live if we only had one income and we bought a house with a mortgage to match that hypothetical scenario. It would be tight, but we could even keep the house if we had to live off of my $35k a year.

My rule of thumb for home buying is to save up at least 20% down plus a small emergency fund (at least a month or two of living expenses). Also, I wouldn’t suggest taking on a mortgage payment that would use up more than 25% of your total take home pay for the payment and property taxes. Our house falls in at 19.8% with taxes.

Yes, I understand that homes on the coasts are insanely priced and may take up a much bigger percentage. This is why I called it “my” rule of thumb. I don’t think we’d personally ever break that rule, so I guess we’d need to make more if we lived in a pricier area or rent a tiny place that could fit into our budget. I rather rent than risk a foreclosure.

2. Car – Yes, the big, pretty, shiny car may be calling your name, but your wallet is going to take a beating if you indulge that whim too often.

Our rule of thumb on vehicles is to buy the least expensive new or used car that also matches our criteria. In my case, I needed a commuter vehicle that was 100% ready to go and wouldn’t have any issues right off the bat while we were broke college kids. That’s how I ended up with my Chevy Aveo. I hate this car now, but it did technically fulfill it’s purpose.

Mr. BFS needed a car that could be driven ALOT cheaply since he has a longer commute and is a sports official after work. It also needed storage space for all of his ref gear and teaching stuff. The Prius actually matched all of that perfectly. It was also much more affordable than the small SUV we were looking at to start with. We saved even more by simply buying a Certified Preowned one-year old model – it had the warranty like the new car and a price we could cough up.

In general, I’d say don’t buy a vehicle that you’d have to spend more than 8% of your take home pay on every month. We are aiming to never finance a car again. Every huge outgoing expense like a mortgage payment or car loan sucks up money better than a cat with a bowl of cream.

3. Kids – According to the article, a child could cost $220,000 to raise and that doesn’t include college. They suggest to avoid overindulging your bundles of joy. I’d suggest making them work off their cost, but that’s just me being evil, hehehe.

Honestly, just don’t go crazy on the stuff that doesn’t matter – no baby cares whether its clothes are from a thrift store or garage sale. I promise. Quality time and love are really the best things you will ever give a child. That will be what they remember. That’s what I remember the most from my parents.

4. Higher Education – Yes, college is expensive. Try to rack up as little debt as possible and take your future job opportunities into account. If future jobs are expected to be low paying, like a volunteer doctor in Africa, a person will be better off taking on less debt than if that same doctor was immediately going to be part of his/her family’s practice.

I think the article was right when saying “Rough rule of thumb, don’t take on more in total education debt than you think you are going to earn on average annually during your first 10 years after graduating (from college or grad school). In plain English, if you think you’ll make $50,000 a year, don’t take out more than $50,000 in loans.”

One year of future salary in loans does sound much more manageable than most scenarios I seem to hear about. To keep your debt lowered, first apply for every grant and scholarship you can possibly get your hands on. Then if there is still a shortfall, I’d suggest looking into part-time work. Lastly, once you are out of college, continue to live like a broke college kid. The more you can hammer away at the loans, the faster you will be debt free.

The 2-3 part-time jobs I held throughout college minimized my costs, so I ended up graduating debt free after my parents forgave $8000 in family loans. Even $8000 would not have been a threat to my financial future.

5. Retirement – The general rule of thumb as the article states it is to save 25 times your current income. That would give you enough that withdrawing 4% a year would be the same as your current annual salary.

Even though I do not think we will need to even use 4% a year since we currently live very nicely off of only 60% of our salaries, we are still shooting for $2,000,000 in our retirement accounts by age 60. This will help supplement my husband’s pension.

In order to reach whatever retirement goals you set, I’d suggest automatically putting away the money. Not only does this keep you from blowing off your goals, but don’t you already have enough on your plate? I know I do. Automation just makes my financial life easier, which is a welcome relief. :-)

Do you think they hit the nail on the head? Are these the 5 things that take up 50% of your money? Do you have any suggestions on saving in these areas?

Don’t Make Purchases to Encourage Good Behavior

One thing I’ve wanted to do better at work is stay hydrated (along with being a good employee and a hard worker…), and instead of buying a bunch of bottled water (which is bad for the environment), I figured I’d buy a nice water bottle that I’d always have by my side (think about a sweet, self-filtering hard plastic machine bottle. I made myself think that if I had a better bottle, I’d be encouraged to drink more.

That type of thinking leads us to the worst types of purchases. Instead of buying something nice to encourage good behavior (which rarely works, like the person who purchases an $80/month gym membership and ends up going three times a month), we should start the good behavior, and if we can sustain, then give a reward.

In my case, I should have started reusing a plastic bottle, and only after improving my behavior rewarded myself with a nicer, more durable bottle.

Another example is a few years back, I got myself the Nike Plus sportband to encourage running more often. I ran more often, but because my friends were doing it, not because of my expensive watch. As soon as they stopped, I stopped, and I still had the watch! (Don’t worry, I’ve since sold it to get my iPhone.)

When we buy things before the good behavior occurs, we don’t connect the reward with the action. If I tell myself that if I work hard the next quarter, I’ll buy myself a brand new C.C. Sabathia jersey, I’ll be motivated to do well and do the best work possible. But if I buy the jersey and say that it’s because I’m going to be putting in long hours over the next few months, there’s little correlation and I won’t have the motivation to keep working before going home. I already have the jersey, so why stay late?

A lot of the “stuff” we get ends up as “stuff” because we buy it before we have a full understanding of how much we’ll use it. It’s not a great idea to buy a nice set of golf clubs before we ever go golfing. Instead, use a rental set, and if you love it enough to continue despite your sub-par hardware, it may finally be time to upgrade. At that point, you can be more certain that it’s something you will continue doing and they won’t just sit in the garage gathering dust.

It’s a much better feeling to earn something than it is to be gifted it. By setting goals and making connections between our actions and our rewards, we can really motivate ourselves and avoid the useless purchases that clutter our lives.

Readers, when have you bought something to encourage good behavior? When have you rewarded your good behavior with something you really wanted?

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Secured or Unsecured Loan? Now THAT is the Question!

This article was written by Andreas Nicolaides, a loans and money expert from MoneySupermarket.com.

When talking about personal finance and in particular loans, we are often met with difficult decisions that can take us a long time to make. Taking out a loan is a big decision that shouldn’t be taken lightly, you should always take into account all of the options available to you. When faced with dealing with loans, you may have to make the decision of taking a secured or unsecured loan, here I will try and detail the difference.

Make sure you compare unsecured loans and secured loans before making a final decision on which is the best loan option for you, this decision could have a big impact on your financial future.

What is a secured loan?

If a loan is stated as secured, this means that it is secured against one of your assets, in other words it’s secured against something you own. A secured loan can be the most conventional way of financing a large sum of money; however, if you fail to repay the loan the lender could take possession of the asset you secured the loan against. This could be a home or a car, and they could then sell off the asset in order to recover the funds that they have lost.

Advantages of a secured loan

  • Secured loans are a great way to obtain money at an affordable rate.
  • You are normally able to borrow more than you would be able to with an unsecured loan, offering you greater flexibility.
  • You are able to spread out the repayments over a longer period of time than an unsecured loan, making the money easier to pay back.
  • Secured loans are easier to get approved for if you have a bad credit history, as the lender has a sort of collateral against you, although, borrowing if you have bad credit may result in your interest being very high.

Disadvantages of a secured loan

  • Taking out a secured loan may result in you being in debt for a long time.
  • Failure to meet your secured loan payments could result in your losing your asset you secured the loan against, this could mean loosing your home.
  • If you don’t have a substantial asset to secure your loan against, for example a car or a home, you may not be eligible for one.

What is an unsecured loan?

If a loan is unsecured then you do not have to secure any assets against the amount to be repaid. Unsecured loans at good rates are becoming harder to come by; this is mainly due to the current economic climate. As there is a greater risk for the lenders when lending you money in an unsecured way, the repayment period is normally shorter, and the interest payments are normally higher.

Advantages of an unsecured loan

  • Taking an unsecured loan means you avoid the risk of loosing your asset.
  • You don’t need to have any substantial assets in order for you to be eligible for one.
  • Borrowing smaller amounts for a shorter repayment period can see an unsecured loan being the right choice for you.
  • Unsecured loans can be tailored to meet the financial needs of the borrower.

Disadvantages of an unsecured loan

  • Unsecured loans come with shorter repayment plans than secured loans.
  • Interest rates are normally higher on unsecured loans as the risk is greater for the lender.
  • The amount you can borrow is usually less than it would be with a secured loan.
  • Lending criteria tends to be tougher than with a secured loan.

Run Your Business Like You Run Your Finances

I was emailing back and forth with a reader and this came up:

“My work wants me to get a smartphone, which is great. They’re willing to pay for it, but are being such a pain. Instead of simply paying me $35 for the increase in cost of my current plan, they are making me get me a whole new plan, which costs around $75. What a waste!”

Um, yah! He’s not the only employee in this position, so the company is spending a ton of extra money on phone plans because of some silly bureaucratic practices.

The way I define saving is when you pay less for an item that you were prepared to pay for anyway. I am not impressed with people who get save $900 on a tv but spend $2,500 on it. How much you spend on an item is far more important than how much you save on it.

This reader’s situation is exactly what I call a waste. The company could get the plan for $35, but instead has rules that require it to pay a $40/month premium for each employee.

I’ve heard of people running their finances as if it were a business. In this case, it should be flipped. If businesses made saving a priority, there would a lot more waste.

Readers, what bureaucratic practices make you go crazy?